SUMMARY
This trip was designed as a nine-day surgical strike to Madagascar. I am a family ticker and I needed to get representative members of the Indian Ocean Islands five endemic families. I also wanted to see all of Madgascar's Ground Rollers. We achieved both of these goals. At the same time we managed a list of 131 species, including 88 of the 120 Malagasy endemics. Although the island undoubtedly deserves more attention than can be given on a nine-day junket such as this, these sorts of returns were good considering the time constraints. There were amazing highlights, including finding a nest of the Long-tailed Ground Roller. The other four species of ground-roller were equally dazzling. We had unrivalled views of Sub-desert Mesite and managed seven of the ten couas and ten of the fifteen vangas. One Madgascar Serpent Eagle soaring over Mantady was perhaps the bird of the trip. The other animals were no less spectacular, and we had magical views of several lemurs, including families of
Diademed Sifaka and the perennial favourite Indri. The mammal highlight however was an Aquatic Tenrec (Limnogale) that scurried across the road one night. The "giant" Parson's Chameleon was seen with amazing regularity.
LOGISTICS
All trip arrangements were made through the African office of Tropical Birding (www.tropicalbirding.com). They arrange set-departure and tailor-made trips to Madagascar throughout the year. We found them to be very good in all regards and found our leader, Keith Barnes (keith@tropicalbirding.com), to be both a great birder and a delightful companion throughout. We can highly recommend a classic Madagascar experience with this company, and we will be arranging future trips with them. In Perinet the local guide, Maurice, was indispensable.
27 Dec
We arrived in Tana and were struck by the bizarre and different landscape that surrounds the capital. Neither African nor Asian, Madagascar exudes an atmosphere that is quite distinctly its own. The terraced and double story dilapidated dwellings have their own charm, standing in the middle of terraced rice paddies and surrounded by exquisite gardens, one feels transported to a landscape fit for Tolkien, not birding. On our way into the city we picked up our first Malagasy birds, a Madagascar Wagtail flitted over the road and then a Red Fody came buzzing past. The wetlands and rice paddies held Cattle and a few Great White Egrets. While searching through the Grey and Squacco herons we found a Madagascar Squacco Heron. Soon enough we were in Tana. The rest of the day was spent resting, although a Madagascar Kestrel buzzed the hotel in the afternoon.
28 Dec
Up early for our flight to Tulear. We made our way to the airport without incident and were soon on the flight to Tulear. The three hour flight is decidedly more tolerable than the 24 hour drive! The landscape changed quickly and it became apparent that the dry southwest was going to be different to Tana. Stepping out of the aircraft at Tulear was like walking into a convection oven. The temperature outside was about 43°C. We met our groundstaff and headed for Ifaty, the beach resort area in the middle of the Spiny Forest that promised so many new birds. Just outside of town Keith spotted our first Madagascar Lark on the road and soon after a party of Madagascar Bee-eaters and a Madagascar Cisticola came "zitting" past. A distant Madagascar Buzzard soared in the distance. The wetlands on the edge of town held a few goodies, including a dark phase Dimorphic Egret. We were soon at Ifaty and we decided to wait for the stifling heat to subside before venturing into the other-worldly "spiny forest". The Octopus
tree and baobabs, combined with the elephant's foot succulents, make birding this habitat one of the highlights of a Madagascar trip, there is always something strange to look at. We headed out as soon as it had cooled off and caught up with our first Madagascar Magpie Robin, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Munia, Madagascar Turtle Dove, Madagascar Kingfisher, Grey-headed Lovebird and a flock of vangas comprising both Chabert's and White-headed Vanga. A flowering tree was attracting both Souimanga and Long-billed Green sunbirds. The non-stop singing of the Thamnornis Warbler, Sub-desert Brush Warbler and Common Jery was enough to give them away. A storm soon gathered and the wind and rain put an end to the day's birding.
29 Dec
Up early to take advantage of the light and before the heat kicked in. We were soon reeling in the specials. One of the first birds was a party of Sickle-billed Vangas. Cracking views of these overgrown cackling beasts brought the adrenaline up to speed. A Green-capped Coua soon followed this, a little further down the trail. Next were a vanga duo, Lefresnaye' and a Hook-billed Vanga. Then Keith heard one of the key specials, a Sub-desert Mesite calling in the distance. Quickly chasing the sound, we flushed a Madagascar Buttonquail that obligingly stopped in the path. Not wanting to dwell too long in case we missed our main quarry we carried on after the mesite. Suddenly the bird's strident alarm call was issued only a few metres from my left ear and the beast shot up off the ground into an octopus tree where, completely in the open, it pointed its beak skywards and froze in its defence posture. We had over five minutes looking at and photographing the Sub-desert Mesite before, as suddenly as it had arrived,
it shot off the branch and disappeared through the tangles of the spiny desert. Extremely pleased, we continued, tracking down a Madagascar Green Pigeon and then a Running Coua and soon afterwards a Crested Coua. The heat was starting to get pretty intense, so we decided to head to the spot where local guide, Moosa, had found a nest of the cosmic and globally threatened Long-tailed Ground Roller just a few weeks ago. Slowly walking the area we easily found the birds, which seemed completely oblivious to our presence. We remained with them and took photos for well over 10 minutes. They foraged unperturbed by our presence. By now it was nearly midday and stinking hot. We headed via the salt pools near the village, picking up the threatened Madagascar Plover on our way back for lunch. The afternoon was spent back in the spiny forest, but we had little joy, adding only Ashy Cuckooshrike.
30 Dec
Again, up early as the mornings were proving to be far better than the evenings for birding. We walked quite far, but had excellent views of Banded Kestrel and Madagascar Harrier Hawk. A roosting Madagascar Nightjar was another highlight. The final southwest special available in the area, the Archibold's Newtonia, was also found. We returned to the ground-roller nest, to spend more time with these remarkable birds. The afternoon was spent snorkeling on the reef near Ifaty, we saw many Lesser Crested Terns and a host of brilliant reef fish. When we returned a Warty Chameleon had managed to get to close to the resident Crested Drongo nest. The birds were dive-bombing the hapless reptile as it tried to move away from danger as quickly as it could.
31 Dec
This morning we awoke predawn in an attempt to get to Tulear at first light. While the bumpy roads slowed progress, we managed to get to La Table shortly after first light. This site, remarkably close to the city of Tulear revealed a species of vanga new to science in the 1990s. We searched relentlessly for the Red-shouldered Vanga, without much luck. Several other species were seen, but after two hours our main quarry remained elusive. We decided it might be best to go and look for some of our other target birds. Our first stop was at a site known to be reliable for Madagascar Sandgrouse, but alas after another hour walking we were still without a new bird for the day. Keith was looking pensive. The bumpy ride down to St Augustin was pretty uneventful, but the spectacular coastal scenery soothed our rather battered posteriors. An another strategic stop we finally got one of the main targets, the Verreaux's Coua. In fact, it only flushed when we were a few metres away…the reason, it was on a nest. It returned
to the nest and we had saturating views of this, the most localised of the couas. It had reached baking point, so we made our way into Tulear for lunch. After lunch and a wait for the heat to recede, we returned to La Table, where our search for Red-shouldered Vangas continued. Madagascar Larks abounded and a single Lefresnaye's Vanga was the only reward after another hour, and then all of a sudden, in the distance, a Red-shouldered Vanga called. Keith's repeated whistling of the birds monotonous whistle drew it closer until it popped out of the thicket only a few metres away!! Relief! We pursued the sandgrouse, but to no avail. As the sun set we had to be happy with these two additional tough endemics.
1 Dec
After overnighting in Tulear, we made our way to the airport early the next morning. The flight, via Fort Dauphin, was uneventful and by midday we were in Tana. We were met by our vehicle and drove down the rather windy road to Analamazoatra. Checking into our hotel at the Feon 'ny Ala, we were serenaded by Indri, hooting in the forest. Alas, we were not fortunate enough to see one before nightfall. Birds next to the hotel included Ward's Flycatcher, Madagascar Brush Warbler and Rand's Warbler. Just as dusk approached a Frances Sparrowhawk flew into a nearby palm and a Day Gecko came out to lick some bananas.
2 Dec
Our first full day at Perinet reserve was great. Mixed species flocks of Madagascar Blue Vanga, Chabert's Vanga, Tylas Vanga, Nuthatch Vanga and Red-tailed Vanga competed for our attention. Bulbuls were everywhere, including the scarce Grey-headed. A Red-fronted Coua called from the deep scrub and then appeared on cue as well played tape. Tape also brought a White-throated Rail out onto the tar road, and it crossed, showing its fantastic red legs. Later, up on the ridge, we heard and found a Madagascar Flufftail that blindly led us to its bowl-shaped nest! Madagascar Blue Pigeons and Vasa Parrot soared overhead. A Nelicourvi Weaver flew passed over the lake and a Madagascar Starling perched high up on a dead branch. We found Brown and Grey Bamboo Lemurs over lunch, as well as a group of the bizarre Giraffe-necked Weevil and a magical Parson's Chameleon, a veritable giant at half a metre long, crossing a path. The temptation to take one home has to be severely resisted! An exquisite Velvet Asity, with a
glowing emerald eye-wattle followed rapidly by a Madagascar Cuckoo Roller displaying high above the canopy clinched our first and most important goal, a representative member of each of the five endemic Malagasy families, Ground Rollers, Mesites, Vangas, Asities and Cuckoo Rollers. High fives were issued all around. However, with only two days remaining, our second goal, of a clean sweep of Ground Rollers was looking a long way off. All attempts to call them up had thus far proved fruitless and we had not heard a single utterance from a single member of the family. Maurice suggested that once on eggs, the birds become very quiet. Nevertheless, we continued to try all Maurice's key stake-outs. The late afternoon delivered a Madagascar Sparrowhawk and Madagascar Spinetail overhead. The forest-floor served up a small party of White-throated Oxylabes and finally the shrill call of a Crossley's Babbler lured us into the undergrowth. Trying desperately to get closer without spooking the bird, we were almost bowled
over by a Brown Mouse Lemur that launched itself at us! The babbler was found and seen well just before dusk. Our nightwalk was decidedly eventful, yielding a young Madagascar Long-eared Owl and a Madagascar Scops Owl. Mammals included Greater Dwarf Lemur and a real mega, a Limnogale, or Aquatic Tenrec, a highly threatened species whipped across the road as we were scanning for Streaked Tenrecs!! Other things of interest included Short-horned , Nose-horned and Pygmy Stump-tailed Chameleons.
3 Dec
We left early for Mantady N.P., some 20 km away. On arrival we found a Tree Boa on the ground eating a chameleon. After entering the forest we soon saw Lesser Vasa Parrot and Forest Fody was new to the list. Another Velvet Asity was very welcome before we located a party of Green Jerys. A Red-breasted Coua called, and we eventually had staggering looks at this, one of the more furtive couas. Just then, a distant "booooo" sound heralded our prime target bird, a Pitta-like Ground Roller. Stalking it with great anticipation, the bird was eventually seen very well, and for nearly two minutes as it called in the canopy bobbing its head with nods of approval at our admiration. Soon afterwards, and with the luck of the gods, A Scaly Ground Roller crossed the trail and then disappeared into the undergrowth. It ignored all attempts at playback. Both Gail and I saw it well enough to tick it….the challenge of five Ground Rollers was on again! Just then we found a large troop of Diademed Sifaka, for me the mammal of the
trip. This elegant gold and grey primate is exquisite, and the frivolity they displayed, playing with one another in the canopy added to the magic of the experience. A small pond yielded a Madagascar Little Grebe and then we made our way to Vakona Lodge for lunch. En-route we stopped at a small series of rice paddies. Madagascar Swamp Warbler was quickly added to the list and an exceptionally responsive Madagascar Rail did the dawn patrol march backwards and forwards in front of us when we played the tape! Lunch beckoned. The success of the morning had us humming. After shovelling lunch down our faces it was back into the forest. I was so pleased we rushed lunch, on the way back in we spotted a large raptor circling. Keith almost forgot to put his feet on the ground he was getting out of the car so fast. It was a wonderful, magical Madagascar Serpent Eagle, not too far above the car! It circled a few more times, called, and all of a sudden took off over a ridge and was gone. Seeing this Critically Endangered
species was probably the single most amazing memory of the trip! The afternoon yielded many of the same birds as the morning, but we managed to add Common Sunbird Asity. Our nightwalk was peppered with Madagascar Scops Owls and we added Eastern Ahavi to our lemur list.
4 Dec
Our final day dawned and we still had several key species that wanted to see. We first tried for Brown Emutail and had the bird, with what can only be described as the scruffiest tail in the world, at arms length. Eventually we heard another welcome "boo", and soon we had Rufous-headed Ground Roller, not just in our sights, but sitting calling a mere two metres away from us. Then only one remained! A Blue Coua called and was located, moving like an African Turaco through the canopy. We were tracking the Madagascar Crested Ibis that had been seen a few days earlier when a Short-legged Ground Roller started to call a long way off. Talk about sprint through a rainforest. As fast as our legs could carry us, Maurice went to locate the birds and Keith stayed with Gail and I. By the time we had caught up to Maurice the birds had stopped calling. He was confident though that they were in the immediate vicinity. The scanning started. After 10 minutes in the same area I was starting to give up hope, but eventually
Maurice saw it…it seemed so obvious once spotted, sitting 10 metres up, absolutely motionless. We watched and photographed the bird for some 10 minutes, before actually walking away from it we were so satisfied. We never did see the Madagascar Crested Ibis, but no-one really cared, we had got what we came for. Five families, five Ground Rollers. Just before we left we notched up Dark Newtonia. Just to say good-bye, we visited a magical group on Indri on our way out of the forest. Lunch was exceptionally satisfying. On the way back to Tana we nabbed Madagascar Pratincole on a river stop. We also stopped at the Mandraka Butterfly Farm, highly recommended as we saw at least 25 species of chameleon, Tomato Frog, Golden Mantella, and a host of bizarre insects. We overnighted in Tana and caught our flight back to Joberg, South Africa early the next day.
LISTS
The nomenclature and taxonomy followed here is according to the Bird's of the Indian Ocean Islands by Sinclair, J.C. and Langrand, O. 1998.
Struik.
Eurasian Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Madagascar Little Grebe Tachybaptus pelzelnii (Vu)
African Darter Anhinga rufa
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Madagascar Pond Heron Ardeola idae (Vu)
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
Dimorphic Egret Egretta dimorpha
Great Egret Egretta alba
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha
Black (Yellow-billed) Kite Milvus (migrans) parasiticus
Madagascar Serpent Eagle Eutriorchis astur (Cr)
Madagascar Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides radiatus
Madagascar Sparrowhawk Accipiter madagascariensis (nt)
Frances's Sparrowhawk Accipiter francesii
Madagascar Buzzard Buteo brachypterus
Madagascar Kestrel Falco newtoni
Banded Kestrel Falco zoniventris
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Sub-desert Mesite Monias benschi (Vu)
Madagascar Buttonquail Turnix nigricollis
Madagascar Flufftail Sarothrura insularis
Madagascar Rail Rallus madagascariensis
White-throated Rail Dryolimnas cuvieri
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphryio
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius
Madagascar Plover Charadrius thoracicus (nt)
Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris
White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinerius
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Sanderling Calidris alba
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis
Feral Pigeon Columba livia
Madagascar Turtle-Dove Streptopelia picturata
Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
Madagascar Green Pigeon Treron australis
Madagascar Blue Pigeon Alectroenas madagascariensis
Greater Vasa Parrot Coracopsis vasa
Lesser Vasa Parrot Coracopsis nigra
Grey-headed Lovebird Agapornis canus
Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus rochii
Red-breasted Coua Coua cursor
Red-fronted Coua Coua serriana
Running Coua Coua reynaudii
Green-capped Coua Coua olivaceiceps
Crested Coua Coua cristata
Verreaux's Coua Coua verreauxi (nt)
Blue Coua Coua caerulea
Madagascar Coucal Centropus toulou
Madagascar Scops Owl Otus rutilus
Madagascar Long-eared Owl Asio madagascariensis
Madagascar Nightjar Caprimulgus madagascariensis
Madagascar Spinetail Zoonavena grandidieri
African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus
Madagascar Black Swift Apus balstoni
Madagascar Kingfisher Alcedo vintsioides
Madagascar Bee-eater Merops superciliosus
Short-legged Ground-Roller Brachypteracias leptosomus (Vu)
Scaled Ground-Roller Brachypteracias squamigera (Vu)
Pitta-like Ground-Roller Atelornis pittoides
Rufous-headed Ground-Roller Atelornis crossleyi (nt)
Long-tailed Ground-Roller Uratelornis chimaera (Vu)
Madagascar Cuckoo-Roller Leptosomus discolor
Madagascar Hoopoe Upupa marginata
Velvet Asity Philepitta castanea
Common Sunbird-Asity Neodrepanis coruscans
Madagascar Bush Lark Mirafra hova
Mascarene Martin Phedina borbornica
Plain (Brown-throated) Martin Riparia paludicola
Madagascar Wagtail Motacilla flaviventris
Ashy (Madagascar) Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina cinerea
Madagascar Bulbul Hypsipetes madagascariensis
Long-billed Greenbul Phyllastrephus madagascariensis
Spectacled Greenbul Phyllastrephus zosterops
Grey-crowned Greenbul Phyllastrephus cinereiceps (nt)
Red-tailed Vanga Calicalicus madagascariensis
Red-shouldered Vanga Calicalicus rufocarpalis (Vu)
Hook-billed Vanga Vanga curvirostris
Lafresnaye's Vanga Xenopirostris xenopirostris
Sickle-billed Vanga Falculea palliata
White-headed Vanga Artamella viridis
Chabert's Vanga Leptopterus chabert
Blue Vanga Cyanolanius madagascarinus
Nuthatch Vanga Hypositta corallirostris
Tylas Vanga Tylas eduardi
Madagascar Magpie-Robin Copsychus albospecularis
Common (Madagascar) Stonechat Saxicola torquata
White-throated Oxylabes Oxylabes madagasacariensis
Crossley's Babbler Mystacornis crossleyi
Brown Emutail Dromaeocercus brunneus
Madagascar Brush Warbler Nesillas typica
Sub-desert Brush Warbler Nesillas lantzii
Madagascar Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus newtoni
Thamnornis Warbler Thamnornis chloropetoides
Rand's Warbler Randia pseudozosterops
Common Newtonia Newtonia brunneicauda
Dark Newtonia Newtonia amphichroa
Archbold's Newtonia Newtonia archboldi
Madagascar Cisticola Cisticola cherina
Common Jery Neomixis tenella
Green Jery Neomixis viridis
Stripe-throated Jery Neomixis striatigula
Ward's Flycatcher Pseudobias wardi
Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher Tersiphone mutata
Souimanga Sunbird Nectarinia souimanga
Long-billed Green Sunbird Nectarinia notata
Madagascar White-eye Zosterops maderaspatana
Madagascar Mannikin Lonchura nana
Nelicourvi Weaver Ploceus nelicourvi
Sakalava Weaver Ploceus sakalava
Madagascar Red Fody Foudia madagascariensis
Forest Fody Foudia omissa
Indian Myna Acridotheres tristis
Madagascar Starling Hartlaubius auratus
Crested Drongo Dicrurus forficatus
Pied Crow Corvus albus
MAMMALS
The nomenclature and taxonomy for mammals is according to Haltenorth, T. & Diller, H. 1977. Collins Fieldguide to Mammals of Africa and Madagascar. Collins. All mammals seen are Malagasy endemics.
Madagascar Flying Fox Pteropus madagascariensis
Lowland Streaked Tenrec Hemicentetes semispinosus
Aquatic Tenrec (Limnogale)
Eastern Red Forest Rat Nesomys rufus
Ring-tailed Mongoose E Galidia elegans
Brown Mouse Lemur Microcebus rufus - Perinet
Greater Dwarf Lemur E Cheirogaleus major - Perinet & Mantady N.P.
Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur Hapalemur griseus Perinet & Mantady N.P.
Red-bellied Lemur Eulemur rubriventer - Mantady N.P.
Common Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus fulvus - Perninet & Mantady N.P.
Eastern Avahi Avahi laniger - Mantadie N.P. @ night
Diademed Sifaka H Propithecus diadema diadema - Mantadie N.P.
Indri Indri indri - Perinet
REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS
Geochelone radiata Radiated Tortoise
Pyxis arachnoides Spider Tortoise
Pelomedusa subrufa Terrapin
Acrantophis madagascariensis Tree Boa
Madagascarophis colubrina Bright Orange snake
Lioheterodon madagascariensis C Black and yellow
Phelsuma madagascariensis Large orange spots on back
Phelsuma lineata "Bananas, white on side"
Oplurus cuvieri Collared Iguanid
Chalarodon madagascariensis Three-eyed Lizard
Zonosaurus madagascariensis Common lizard
Furcifer verrucosus Warty Chameleon - Ifaty
Calumma nasutus Short-horned Chameleon - Perinet
Calumma brevicornis Nose-horned Chameleon - Perinet
Calumma parsoni Parson's Giant Chameleon - Perinet
Brookesia minima Pygmy Stump-tailed Chameleon - Perinet
Mabuya gravenhorsti Common skink
Mantella madagascariensis Painted Mantella - Mantadie
Boophis spp.
BUTTERFLIES
Atrophaneura anterior
Pharmacophagus antenor Giant swallowtail
Papilio demodocus Citrus Swallowtail
Papilio delalande yellow-banded swallowtail
Papilio epiphorbas green-banded swallowtail
Belenois helcida black bordered, pale yellow-white
Appias epaphia Black-tipped pointed forewings
Colotis sp. Very small orange tip
Colotis zoe Rayed Purple Tip
Eurema madagascariensis
Mylothris ngazayi Or similar species of Dotted Border
Henotesia ankora Small Ringlet
Henotesia ankaratra All dull orange
Danaus chrysippus African Monarch
Sallya madagascariensis Social Tree Nymph
Aterica rabena Large forest floor, orange
Biblyia antevora Or similar, but yellow not orange
Charaxes sp. three pale orange spots hindwing
Neptis sp. Extremely extensive white banding
Neptis saclava Sailer
Junonia oenone Dark Blue Pansy
Junonia orythia Blue Pansy
Junonia sp. bisected wing spot
Salamis anarcardii Mother-of-Pearl
Phalantha phalanta Leopard
Vanessa cardui Painted Lady
Acraea admatha Orange, clear forewings, very small
Acraea encedon Mimicking yellow African Monarch
MISCELLANEOUS
Giraffe-necked Weevil Trachelophorus giraffa - Perinet
Hissing Cockroach Gromphadorhina hopardi
Leafhopper sp. Gascardia sp.
Orb-Web Spider Nephilia madagacariensis
Green Pill Millipedes Sphaerotherium spp.
Uraniid Moths Chrysiridia madagascariensis
PLANTS (SELECTED LIST)
Adansonia digitata
Adansonia fony
Adansonia za
Adansonia madagascariensis
Didierea madagascariensis
Didierea trollii
Alluaudia procera
Alluaudia ascendens
Alluaudia comosa
Euphorbia stenoclada
Euphorbia oconclada
Euphorbia millii Crown-of-thorns
Delonix adansonoides Flambuoyant with swollen trunk
Pachypodium sp. Elephant's Foot/Stone Plant
Typhonodorum lindleyaneum Giant aquatic Arum
Ravanala madagascariensis Traveller's Palm
Neodipsis decaryae Three-cornered Palm
Cycas thouarsii Endemic Cycad
Rhipsalis cassytha Old world member of Cactaceae